Someone gave me a Winchester 290 semi-auto .22 rifle which was rusted. When I brought it to my favorite gun shop to have it cleaned up they told me that they won't repair that gun because it is notoriously unreliable and will probably break again after a short time. Is this true? Is it a piece of junk?
Ok, here's what you really have...an opportunity to learn everything about your particular rifle.
The first time I got my hands on a beat-up old gun, it was time to learn. You go thru a process of trying to fix all the problems...but here's a list of things to do that will help you learn.
1. Take PICTURES of EVERYTHING...no matter what you are disassembling.
The reason for this is pretty simple, it's to show you how to put it back...and help other folks with the same type rifle.
Things happen when you are working on complex items...your wife may set fire to dinner...and the whole kitchen...and it maybe a few days before you get back to your project...taking a snapshot of Each Step can mean the difference between being able to fix it yourself...and having to call in for professional help. Posting those pics can get you better responses as to what is wrong when you run into a problem...when you can SHOW someone a pic...they can usually help even more on here.
2. The Winchester 190 is the same as the 290, EXCEPT the 190 has a plainer stock & forearm. The 290 was made from 1963-77...with early models having the plain stock...then they got smart and called the plain ones 190's so they could capitallize on the cheap end of the market & sell 290's for a little more, having checkering & better wood.
3. Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things...keep your sense of humour
4. If you have a decent compressor...its your best friend for sandblasting & applying Duracoat. If you don't have one, it gives you an excuse to get the biggest one you can afford. I've got an inexpensive one from Harbour Freight Tools 2hp/8gallon...which is probably the smallest you wanna have, and honestly, I don't think it's enough.
A larger one is needed, really, but it does OK in a pinch. It'll get the sandblasting done, but it gets it done slowly. It works great for spraypainting, but you have to develop a sense of timing...as it runs out of air after awhile.
5. Here's the link to the manual.
This one is particularly helpful, as it has LOTS of pics.
4. I posted a link in my last post above to Numrich...a very good source of parts.
6. Don't be afraid to mess up...old rifles are mostly made of steel, so they're kinda hard to jack up too badly...especially lever-actions like yours. Take your time & do each thing as one step each. When removing springs...be ready for them to shoot off into space.
7. Even a rusty gun can be made to look better with oil & steel wool. 00 grit to start with, then 0000 to finish. You'll be amazed how much nicer it looks after. Lowe's carries the steel wool...use regular gun oil like Hoppes or whatever Walmart special you can find. Just rub until it looks healty. it WILL take some time...so dedicate a Saturday. Watch cartoons & clean
If the stock looks like heck, you have two easy options...either strip it & refinish it, or buy a new one from Numrich. Either way, it'll help
Good luck, and enjoy learning about your new to you rifle