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Norinco's can be hard to find but they're made from tool steel and were the go to platform for many custom builders before the ban.
They weren't really "tool steel" but forged carbon steel, the guns themselves were pretty rough, but the steel was indeed very quality.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I am leaning toward the ria then replacing the msh myself. Any coments on Nickel or matte nickel finish ?
 
I am leaning toward the ria then replacing the msh myself. Any coments on Nickel or matte nickel finish ?
Consider swapping MSH's with JetGirl. Then both of you will spend only postage costs to get what you want to end up with.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Man...I think im liking the Norinco's more and more...all that's been said everywhere about the strong steel and the stock 1911A1 parts. I like them...I like them alott
 
Consider swapping MSH's with JetGirl. Then both of you will spend only postage costs to get what you want to end up with.
Good thought, but the RIA's MSH is a prickly polymer. I don't know JetGirl, so maybe she's into these kids of things?

@UC45: The matte nickle is a pretty finish without being glaringly shiny.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Good thought, but the RIA's MSH is a prickly polymer. I don't know JetGirl, so maybe she's into these kids of things?

@UC45: The matte nickle is a pretty finish without being glaringly shiny.
Ive been researching(and winding up on other forums)and found there are nickel norinco 1911's. I think if my shop can find me one for a good price ill get a Norinco. Otherwise it's gonna be a RIA GI.
 
I don't know about a "prickly polymer" but I've carried a Kimber with a polymer MSH for over 10 years, with no issues at all.... but, that's entirely up to her.
 
They weren't really "tool steel" but forged carbon steel, the guns themselves were pretty rough, but the steel was indeed very quality.
Respectfully, there are quite a few carbon steels that are indeed, "tool steels"... O1, D2, and A2, are just a few of 'em

24th Edition of Machinery's Handbook page 417
 
Respectfully, there are quite a few carbon steels that are indeed, "tool steels"... O1, D2, and A2, are just a few of 'em

24th Edition of Machinery's Handbook page 417
Yes indeed, but I don't think those are used in 1911 frame and slides because they're so hard they're not condusive to working with, or even functioning as tool steel is brittle. I'm not a metalurgist though, don't swear me to that. ;) I know 1911 small parts are often tool steel, but I don't think frame and slide sets are.
 
Sights

UrbanCombat45: Sir, my only issue with my RIA, stock sights leave a-lot left to be desired:) other than, a more than satisfactory firearm:)
 
Yes indeed, but I don't think those are used in 1911 frame and slides because they're so hard they're not condusive to working with, or even functioning. I'm not a metalurgist though, don't swear me to that. ;) I know 1911 small parts are often tool steel, but I don't think frame and slide sets are.
Most all tool steels are readily "workable" until they go thru heat treat. The heat treat process determines the end hardness of any steel... from just a bit tough, all the way up to over 60 Rockwell, which can become very brittle.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Do you think thenorinco would cost more than the RIA ? And parts shouldn't be a problem since 1911 parts are universal fit right ?
 
I have no idea about the cost difference (if any) between the two. As far as interchanging parts, if we're still talking main spring housings, I don't see a problem. (but my crystal ball broke years ago) Some of the internals may well require a bit of fitting, and some may drop in and function fine. You should have a fair amount of experience before you set about "fitting" internal parts.

Just my 2 cents......
 
I have no idea about the cost difference (if any) between the two. As far as interchanging parts, if we're still talking main spring housings, I don't see a problem. (but my crystal ball broke years ago) Some of the internals may well require a bit of fitting, and some may drop in and function fine. You should have a fair amount of experience before you set about "fitting" internal parts.

Just my 2 cents......
From what I've seen a used Norinco will run about the same as a new RIA.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
I have no idea about the cost difference (if any) between the two. As far as interchanging parts, if we're still talking main spring housings, I don't see a problem. (but my crystal ball broke years ago) Some of the internals may well require a bit of fitting, and some may drop in and function fine. You should have a fair amount of experience before you set about "fitting" internal parts.

Just my 2 cents......
All the parts in case I ever have to replace anything and I want the Norinco because it already has the arched msh and other parts that go on a 1911A1.
 
Good thought, but the RIA's MSH is a prickly polymer. I don't know JetGirl, so maybe she's into these kids of things?
Meh... I'm not really digging those hard checkered types with the sharp cuts.

I don't know about a "prickly polymer" but I've carried a Kimber with a polymer MSH for over 10 years, with no issues at all.... but, that's entirely up to her.
Polymers don't bother me... I just like the stainless look on stainless...but I can live with black on stainless when the comfort of my grip is in play.
And one of those, I've got.
It has the flat straight grooves that I'm fond of...so I'll probably just put that one on there in a "swap out" if I don't run across one just like it in stainless. :)

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I want the Norinco because it already has the arched msh and other parts that go on a 1911A1.
There ya go. :)
 
Good thought, but the RIA's MSH is a prickly polymer. I don't know JetGirl, so maybe she's into these kids of things?

I don't get the prickly polymer part. Nothing prickly about it. The only way I can tell it's not checkered steel is with a magnet. It will probably last a lifetime but plastic has no place on a 1911, not one of mine anyway.

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