Perhaps your clip latch spring is worn. It's the least expensive part to replace and it's usually the culprit.

HTH

Dave

 

premature ejection needs to be fixed !

 

Replace clip latch spring. It is possible you have other worn parts but that is the first thing to check

 

I'm not arguing, but I was thinking it may be because of something worn in the operating rod catch assembly. I can put a clip in the receiver and it cannot be pushed or wiggled out. The clip release pins need to be moved to release the clip. So, I'm thinking it has to do with timing and the operating rod catch releasing the clip before the last round. What causes the operating rod catch to activate the clip release? I think normally it is when the follower/bullet guide gets to the top.
As you can tell, I could replace all those individual parts and maybe solve the issue but still not know why it is happening.

 

Not sure I understand. Are you saying that after the enbloc is empty it does not eject and the only way to release it is to push the clip latch?
If so does it spring out or pop on its own ?
If it does not pop out the clip ejector spring is broke
Its hard to diagnose a problem without exact deatisl what is going on.
Please try and post again with details

 

What is happening is described in my initial question. The clip will partially eject at the 3rd or 4th round. It has also done that sometimes after the 1st round with a 2 round clip.
My 2nd post further describes how I believe that the spring tension and clip retaining pins are OK, because with the rifle stripped I can put a clip in the receiver and it cannot be removed without the release being actuated. There is no slop or looseness of the clip in the receiver.
Sorry for any confusion. I'm just trying to figure out the reason (part) that causes the early partial ejection.

 

I thought I understood what is happening but your second post confused me which isnt hard to do.

OK, You can still have a weak clip latch spring, testing by feel of the latch button or wiggleing the enbloc is not a accurate test
You can try this, remove clip latch spring and try sligthly stretching it, reassemble and fire rifle. If problem goes away order new spring

While you have it apart check the follower rod to see if it is bent also check follower arm.
Its is also possible the clip latch is worn but thats not something you normally see

Have you ever replaced the Op Rod spring itself? If not this would be a good time to do so. Spring so be free of bends or kinks and measure between 19 and 20 1/4 inches
Do not buy a Wolff extra power OPS as they can cause short stroking
Orion 7 has both Op Rod and clip latch springs
Let us know what you find out

 

Thanx, I'll give the above a try and see what happens.
The way it is snowing here, it may be quite a while before I get back to the range.
I just feel that something is making the operating rod catch push the lever for the clip release, earlier than it should, rather than something being weak causing it. But feelings and actuality can be two different things.
Thanx again.

 

99% of the time early enbloc ejection is a weak clip latch spring. Not saying I understand it, I just know what I know
While you have it apart check the other parts I mentioned
As I already stated check that Op Rod spring, if its out of spec it can affect timing

 

Follower rod and arm both straight. Op rod spring unkinked and 19 1/4 inches.
I stretched the clip release spring and am ready for whenever the weather clears to go to the range. We'll see then.
Thanx

 

The very first thing I do with any Garand I buy is replace the Op Rod spring
The bolt actually hits the receiver heel when fired. The Op Rod spring is what actually cushions the impact
Your spring is at the lower end of specs, I recommend replacing it with one from here
M1 Garand Parts

 

The very first thing I do with any Garand I buy is replace the Op Rod spring
The bolt actually hits the receiver heel when fired. The Op Rod spring is what actually cushions the impact
Your spring is at the lower end of specs, I recommend replacing it with one from here
M1 Garand Parts

Now, mechanical engineering-wise, this combination makes sense. If I have a weak clip latch spring, it would cause the early ejection. And, with a weak op rod spring, it wouldn't fully eject the clip with ammo.
I'll try the stretched clip latch spring, but I'm pretty sure it will do the same thing as before.
I've ordered both springs and am sure that will solve the problem. If not, "I'll be back."

Thanx for your time and experience.

 

Replaced springs

I installed both spring replacements. The new op rod spring almost an inch longer and the clip latch spring about an 1/8 longer. I shot 3 8 round clips and 2 two round clips with no early release problems. So essentially problem fixed. I did, however have 2, what I think you would call 'short cycles', where the cartridge was ejected but the next round was not loaded. Firing original M2 ball ammo probably is the cause there?

 

I installed both spring replacements. The new op rod spring almost an inch longer and the clip latch spring about an 1/8 longer. I shot 3 8 round clips and 2 two round clips with no early release problems. So essentially problem fixed. I did, however have 2, what I think you would call 'short cycles', where the cartridge was ejected but the next round was not loaded. Firing original M2 ball ammo probably is the cause there?

Grease rifle well, and try and then try with your old op rod spring.

 

Short stroking can be a number of things.
FIRST:
where did you by the Op Rod Spring?. If you bought a Wolff extra Power thats more than likely the issue, they can cause short stroking
Check to make sure gas screw is tight
As already suggested make sure rifle is clean and greased

 

New springs

I got the springs from Orion as you recommended. The rifle is very clean. Just before going to the range does she get a fresh coat of lubriplate. I also have the single slot gas screw. Maybe the op rod spring just needs a few rounds to break in?

 

It is possible that your Op Rod piston or gas cylinder in out of spec and problems didnt show until you installed a inspec Op Rod Spring
Is gas screw tight?
Measure op rod piston

 

More likely a too powerful of a spring. Thats why I recommended putting the old spring back in, that would definitely vindicate all the other possibilities if the problem then no longer existed.

 

Not trying to argue but never heard of a Orion 7 spring causing any problems.
If the gas cylinder piston is undersized or the gas cylinder worn oversized and using a weak op rod spring the rifle could have functioned fine. Then changing to a inspec op rod spring it is "possible"that it would short stroke.
I would measure the gas piston and gas cylinder, make sure the gas screw is tight.Ignoring a weak op rod spring could "possibly" cause a failure in the future. Changing back to a weak spring to make the rifle function is only putting a band aid on the problem.
Just my opinion yours may vary.
Good luck

PS, what ammo are you using?

 

Do you know for a fact his spring was weak, or is it your recommendation to change springs because it may have been old. There may be nothing wrong with his spring.

 

I recommended that he replace his clip latch spring and while he was at it may as well replace the Op Rod Spring.

You are absolutly right there "may" not be anything wrong with his spring.
Its only cheap insurance, the Op Rod Spring helps cushion the receiver when fired as well as function.
He said his spring measured 19 1/4 inches.
Specs are , spring is to be free of bends or kinks and measure 20 1/4 to 19 inches in length. I would say his was nearly ready to be replaced
If he replaces the new spring with the old one and the rifle functions fine, I'm still betting there are other underlying issues

First thing I do is replace the Op Rod Spring in every Garand I buy, over 20 some now. Never had a Orion 7 spring give me any problems yet
JMO

 

To go back to the old spring does not mean it has to be permanant. It will just give him an idea what it was. Once he went to the new spring, problems arose. To be honest, I bought 4 Garands from CMP and never replaced the op-rod springs. They function fine, and I won't replace them till I see a sign. Your advice is good and right on, but it won't hurt him or his rifle to see what the culpret is.

 

Ammo

As I said before, I've been using M2 ammo. I think new ammo is too "hot" for old rifle technology.
I don't have a micrometer to check piston and cylinder, but I get little to no blow by on the sides of the piston.
Regardless, it's not like I'm in a combat situation or anything.
Mostly I target shoot with the 2 round clip and I didn't have a short cycle with that. So I think between the old ammo and a new spring, getting more cycles on the spring will gradually make it less prone to short cycling. After all it was only twice in 3 - 8 round clips. If it persists I'll take the cylinder and op rod and get them mic'd. as that seems to be the next step.
You all helped solve the original problem. I appreciate all the info. and advise. Thanx.

 

PS
If you had seen how worn the barrel was, you'd know how worn the spring is. You could rattle a round in the chamber. So I have a new barrel and bolt, now with 2 new springs.

 

All M2 ball ammo is not made the same, what headstamp?
The new spring will not break in.
If you want help with your rifle pm or e-mail me and I will walk you through it


M14man- the reason for changing Op Rod springs before you have a failure is simple.
When the Garand is fired the recoil pushes the baolt back at a fast rate hitting the receiver heel. I inspec spring cushions the blow protecting the receiver.