[Orlando]

Are you using USGI enblocs?
Did you ever check the clip latch stock cut out that I mentioned earlier in this thread? Make sure the stock is not interfering with the latch.
I can send you a follower rod and arm to try, If it doesnt solve the problem just reimburse the shipping and send them back. If it does fix the problem you can pay me for them.
I'll sell you the parts cheaper than you will find elsewhere

 

[rhilde]

Clips and cut out

I did check the clip latch cut out when you suggested it earlier. Sorry I didn't reply to that. There is no interference or wear there.
It's hard to tell if all the clips are USGI. They came in USGI bandoleers but most clips have no markings. Ones I bought separate have "AEC 3" on them. Most are the black type with no markings on them. And then there are 6 which I'm sure are not USGI, that have no coating and a hole where the mark would be.
What would I look for rod and arm that isn't that they are bent?

 

[rhilde]

New Parts and USGI clips

OK, I went to a gun show today and bought 20 SA or WN clips, a new follower rod and a new follower arm.
Some time next week I hope to make it to the range it give it another try.

 

[Orlando]

Only other thing I can think of, take a close look for wear on the Op Rod Catch.
I think the AEC3 are commercial enblocs and should be ok. For testing for this problem dont use the enblocs with holes or unmarked ones

 

[rhilde]

Grease well

Grease rifle well, and try and then try with your old op rod spring.

In your opinion and experience, how much grease is "well? It's a relative word and I saw a couple last weekend at a gun show that were so "greased" it could have taken the place of cosmoline. I've been applying a good coat with a cotton swab and only just before shooting. Oil and grease attract a lot of dirt, and minimum to prevent rust and ensure good operation is all I would think is needed.

 

[M14man]

That was a possible solution to the short stroking as I recall.( Without going back and looking)
Your early clip release is not related to that.

 

[Ericc]

In your opinion and experience, how much grease is "well? It's a relative word and I saw a couple last weekend at a gun show that were so "greased" it could have taken the place of cosmoline. I've been applying a good coat with a cotton swab and only just before shooting. Oil and grease attract a lot of dirt, and minimum to prevent rust and ensure good operation is all I would think is needed.

A thin film of grease is all that is needed. Anything thicker is just displaced when the two sliding parts travel over it. It sounds like you're greasing it appropriately.

Eric

 

[rhilde]

Success

I fired 3 SA, 1 WEP, 1 WRA, 1 WN, and 1 "No name" clips through this morning, and had NO problems. I even had her smoking the grease at one point.
So after replacing the op rod spring, the clip release spring, the bullet guide, the follower arm, and the follower rod and using USGI clips (even one that wasn't), all appears to be OK and this thread might be finished. I really didn't see much difference between new and old follower arm or rod, except knowing that the holes and pins and slot were new to spec, that I couldn't measure on the old. But at the prices, they worth replacing.

Thanx to all for input, advise and recommendations. Much appreciated. Now I can concentrate on the targets down range a lot better. I'll eventually get back to some of the non-USGI clips and see what happens since I have them. And if they don't work I'll trash them.

 

[TheJoker]

Yay! Congratulations! Just in time to celebrate Memorial Day!

I guess I was really lucky that for my Winnie, the clip latch spring was all I had to replace!

 

[Orlando]

Glad you got it figured out. I still think that someone bent the bullet guide in order to try and fix the problem.

 

[rhilde]

could be

Glad you got it figured out. I still think that someone bent the bullet guide in order to try and fix the problem.

Your feeling maybe correct. Without going back and installing the original parts, it seems to me that I didn't have the "positive", most rear lock into the Operating Rod Catch. It now locks the bolt behind the receiver bridge, and is a very solid lock. Personally, I wouldn't deliberately bend parts because that stresses the structure of the part making it more likely to break at that point. Guess we'll never know for sure.
Thank-you for all your assistance.