With ammo prices really getting down low should I stock up on store bought ammo and keep my reloading supplies for when things get tight? I primarily shoot the range and practice pistol for self defense. I have 9mm, 380, 38 / 357, and 45 calibers. My rifles are 22 and 357 (Rossi lever).

Just wondering if reloading AND store bought will dry up down the road.........

I'd do both if I was able to buy new and reload. IMOA, primer prices are still at gouge the consumer levels.

 

Rural King had more ammo in multiple calibers on Tuesday than I have seen anywhere since before covid started. It seemed like it wasn't quite as high as it's been being either.

 

My theory is stock deep when cheap. There is no point whatsoever in reloading 9mm or .45 ACP for most of us, yes you should have a press and the dies in case that day comes, but for the most part I just don't have the time to run off 1,000 rounds of 9mm that I can buy for $225 because it's not like reloading is free. Might save $100? I doubt that much even.

I feel differently about certain people and their long range or wildcat hunting cartridges though. I have the stuff, but I am still not that guy. If I miss a mule deer at 250 yards with factory Weatherby Select Plus ammo, it's an extremely small chance the ammo played any part in that.

So to answer the question, as prices and availability stand yes, I am a buyer.

 

Thanks - that is the way I was leaning but wanted another opinion. I believe that is the route I'll go. I am set on reloading stock so I'll wait it out. Plus I get to collect more brass with factory.....LOL

 

reloading is the long game.
bet red 50 times and black 50 times and you still got your 3 dollars... so says the math... LOL.

reloading works out in your favor if your willing to make the investment, and play the game intelligently.
maybe 5-6% of what i have is factory, most of that is hand me downs from various places.
i still load 44 mag for less than 22lr cost... not every one can do that.

 

OTC prices are still not down to where they used to be but they are dropping. I doubt if they will get to pre-pre-covid prices. I'm not a reloader just an average schmoe who buys ammo at Academy and Cabela's.

 

Yep with the prices of reloading equipment, primers, powder, & bullets being so high you just can't reload at the price of what is on the shelf. The only exception is reloading for accuracy, you can load a much more accurate round than you can buy.

 

I have no idea, where you're getting low ammo prices. Everything near me has stayed at the same high prices.

 

Just saw 300 PRC at LGS $49.99/box. Cheap? Nah, but much better.

 

Not that much of a pistol shooter so I have never gotten into hand loading pistol calibers. I reload all the rifle calibers I shoot.

 

I suppose that if you joined in to the ammo game only recently, then you'd think that the prices are getting low. To those of us that can remember back at least a few decades, the prices are not even close to pre-covid prices and most likely never will.

That being said, if you've got the money then buy commercial ammo while you can, the more the better.

 

This is a question that my gang has dealt with every few years for50years. Let me take a stab at how myself and 4-5 buddies have approached it over 5 decades. First, if you have kids and wives and 2 jobs, ignore the following.


If you shoot a lot of rifle rounds it probably matters. If you are retired and can arrange your day, or can sit on the porch and size 500 357s cases then a day or two later handload the primers you have lost very little time for "productive" things. My buddy became a surgeon. Once he called and asked what I was doing. Changing the oil in my diesel truck. Why do you do that he asked, me--saves money and not a big deal. He replied, I have no idea where the oil filter is on my SUV. Later we would joke that he was highly educated and had forgotten how to even change his oil--he was raised poor. But as AK Hunter says, why save $10 when he would make $300 an hour when working. And, he was a surgeon, breaking a finger would lose big money. All depends on your choice, everybody has 24 hours each day, just depends on how you choose to spend them.

I have lots of gun, 2 Weatherby calibers, I like to shoot the 257 as I said before, my gun shoots under 1/2 inch basically everything. Factory ammo is $50-$80 a box, $2.50 up. I shoot that gun more than most folks because I like to shoot things with an actual deer gun a long way off. I loaded and shot 200-300 rounds last year. I make my own brass out of 7mm Mag and use mostly Sierra Game King, about 30 cents, 35 cents powder and 10 cents primer. Even with new 7mm brass, that is about $1.10 or $22 a box the first time and 85 cents or $11.60 per box. That is ammo that will shoot 1/2 inch groups. 100 grain bullets at about 3,350 -3,400 fps. I load 75 grain Varmint bullets, 75 grain HP and 87 grain spire point up to 3,700 fps. These are not cheap bullets and if you could find them, they would be $60-$80 per box. I shoot 200 or more per year, that is $600 or more savings, most people do not do that.

I shoot rifles in 45-70. Any factory ammo is over $40 or $2 each. I can cast a 340 grain bullet, and powder coat if I want it hot, or load down. I can load a Buffalo killing bullet, for........

Bullet---$5 cents, primer 10 cents, powder-17 grains Unique 12 cents. That is 32 cents or $6.40 per box plus the pro-rated cost of the brass. They never wear out at those levels but if you apply 5 cents, then a 37 cent load, big deal. If I load JSP bullets the cost is about 38 cents powder, 50 cents bullet and 10 cents primer or 98 cents per, about half the price of factory. I cannot shoot many of them, they beat me up.

I do find by buying powder coated cast bullets I can save a lot on the common pistol bullets I load. Two days ago I bought 500 bullets, 40 cal for 10 cents each. I load them in 40 SW, 400 Corbon and 10mm. All factory 400 Corbon is $2 or so a round, 40 SW is cheap and 10mm about $25 abox or 50 cents each. I can load them for 10 cents primer, 7 cents powder, and 10 cents bullet. That is 27 cents or $13.50 a box, and I load them full power.

You asked about 9mm, 45 and 357. I have rarely loaded 9mm, when they are under $15 a box or 30 cents each, your diminishing returns sets in pretty quickly. Your 380 is one you need to stock pile, they disappear and get costly. They are a pain to reload. I have about 1,000 cases ready, I hate to load them but I load for 3 family members.. 45 acp is one that I load also, I shoot it in the 1911 and three wheel guns. I even load them with round balls, my cost on those is 10 cent primer, 4 cents powder and maybe 2 cents lead cost, for my 154 grain cast round ball. That is 16 cents each. I even load some of those in pickup steel cases. They are a hoot, and 16 cents a pop, quite fun.

Last is your 357. I have both Rossi and Marlin 357 levers. I have loaded for one since 1981 the first year they were made. Levers are not known to be accurate. My 357 Marlin with 125 grain Remington bullets will shoot 1.25 inch groups at 100 yards. Factory loads are huge, like 3 inches or more. You can buy 357 ammo now for about $30 a box down from $35-$40. Unless you scope your Rossi it probably does not matter to reload for accuracy. My Rossis are not that accurate. That said, you can buy powder coated cast bullets for about 15 cents, 10 cents primer and about 10 cents powder or 35 cents or $17.50 per box. Not for hunting anything like deer but for fun, turkeys, coyotes or anything else they are great.

You are loading the 357 for both rifle and pistol. My experience is that if I develop a load for the rifle, then that load is great for the pistol as well. If I try to get something faster burning for the handguns, then they may lose velocity in the longer barrel. That said, load them all with 296 or 110 and forget about it.

So, not to be boring but I do not need the savings by reloading, I enjoy reloading and I enjoy doing it cheap. Thumbing my nose at the many scalpers that take advantage of us poor hunters and shooting guys. Just my opinion, but go walk around a gun show and check prices and you will see why Isay that.

And last, there is value in creating something. I once cast a 365 grain bullet and killed my first black powder deer at about 80 yards. The deer was trotting in pouring rain and I made a lucky shot. The fact that I poured that lead is something that I tell every none when they see that deer on the wall. I probably shoot 80% reloads these days.

Anyway, just some thoughts. Either way, as AK Hunter says, stack em deep, either loaded or components.

 

I Only buy .22lr, my 450BM deer- hog loads. My 410 loads.
Plus my self defence ammo.

I cast powder coat and reload. Everything else including my coyote loads for the 450 BM.
I load 9mm about 14cents a round Casting my own and using Range Scrap, and Red Dot or 231 gun powder. It is way more accurate target rounds then any store bought. So about $8 bucks a box. And it's enjoyable.
. 38 spcl and .357 is about the same price to reload.
Thing is with reloading primers can be used with several calibers. So keep those stocked well at 10 bucks a hundred or less. Then you are good.
Powders may run short but there is usually something on the shelves you can substitute if you are willing to build another load.
If you don't find casting and or loading fun. Or you are not going for superb repeatable accuracy. Shooting a lot with different calibers. Or do not see yourself enjoying the process.
Then best off just stocking with cheap ammo.

As for the major advantage.
ei. If I have 8 lb of w231, 5 thousand small pistol primers. I can keep my brass and reload for 38 special, small primers 45 ACP, 9mm, and 380. Dig my lead and others back out of the berm and melt it into whatever pistol bullet I need.
Basically keep up back stock , different calibers as they are being used up. Rather then hundreds of caliber specific boxes.
It's nice just to load up what I want to shoot. Say I want to shoot my 9 this weekend, load up 100 rounds a few at a time as I walk past the press all week. Put those in stock and rotate out the older ones. Rather then hunting for a box of 9mm and finding only 38 spcl on the shelves.

 

And for those that buy for the long haul. For gosh sakes, buy in bulk. When we got our first SKS 4 decades ago money was a tight and the SKS and later AKs and ARs, like to be fed a lot. So, the first company I recall was Century Arms who sold direct to the public at the time. 7.62 x 39 was 6.5-7 cents per round when you bought a case of 1,440, but locally it was 10-12 cents per round. So 2 or 3 of us would buy cases together.

Lots of bulk ammo companies out there now. But there is no such thing as the lowest price year round. I like SG ammo for example, but lots of times they are not even close to the cheapest, sometimes they are and calculating shipping and tax matters. Some companies still do not collect state tax.

I have had better luck buying bulk thru Sportsman's Guide during the pandemic, but when they have deals it goes fast, so do not dally.

 

Practice / target ammo right now is about 22-25 cents a round for 9mm. Critical defense ammo or premium ammo can cost upwards of a $1 a round for 9mm. My cost to reload is a small fraction of store bought premium ammo. I can reload premiun 9mm ammo for under 30 cents a round.
The largest caliber I own is a 300WSM and premium hunting ammo costs $60-$90 a box of 20 ($3-$4 a round). It costs me just over a buck per round (pre-Covid price) but that high cost included having to buy the brass cases so I could reload my initial batch. I bought 200 brass cases. If you reuse your brass, it costs me 80 cents a round using Hornady 180gr SST bullets, Federal Large Rifle Magnum primers, and H4350 powder.

Now then...this doesn't factor in my time/labor because I get enjoyment doing it. If I had to do it for someone else, you couldn't afford my ammo. And that is reality.

 

Practice / target ammo right now is about 22-25 cents a round for 9mm. Critical defense ammo or premium ammo can cost upwards of a $1 a round for 9mm. My cost to reload is a small fraction of store bought premium ammo. I can reload premiun 9mm ammo for under 30 cents a round.
The largest caliber I own is a 300WSM and premium hunting ammo costs $60-$90 a box of 20 ($3-$4 a round). It costs me just over a buck per round (pre-Covid price) but that high cost included having to buy the brass cases so I could reload my initial batch. I bought 200 brass cases. If you reuse your brass, it costs me 80 cents a round using Hornady 180gr SST bullets, Federal Large Rifle Magnum primers, and H4350 powder.

Now then...this doesn't factor in my time/labor because I get enjoyment doing it. If I had to do it for someone else, you couldn't afford my ammo. And that is reality.

LOL. We are on the same wave link.

The prices of components are jumping quickly in recent weeks. For example, I prefer IMR4350 for my 300 Weatherby and 30-06, Midway has it for $47.99--$48,Bass Pro has it at $55. . Hornady SST 180 Tipped are now $.0.43 cents, and primers are 8-10cents.Midway is out ft stock but the last price was 11 cents each. I am loading old stock so my cost is much less but for someone just starting the Weatherby calibers it is crazy not to reload, if you shoot a lot, and I do.

Weatherby calibers are only a little bit superior, but so is the price. Running those numbers is still much better that $4 OR $80/BOX.

That said, my 300 Wby takes about 80 grains of powder, or 55 cents powder (nuts), 43 cent bullet and 10 cent primer or $1.08 per round. But I did not include tax and shipping if any. So the real cost is around $1.10 plus case. It costs money to shoot premium ammo.

That said I can load a factory equvalent 30-06 with Hornady, Sierra or Speer BTSP much cheaper. I use the 150 grain Hornady #3033 with which I have made kills over 500 yards. The recipe is 59 grains IMR 4350 and that 10 cent primer. The cost is 43 powder 10 primer and 35 cents bullet===88 cents or $17.60 /box. I prefer Remington cases but any will do. I have used Lake City military production cases as well, and love them. You can reload them at least a dozen times.

So, to me, if you shoot any rifle round very much the savings is huge. I like to shoot my257 Weatherby a lot, flat like a laser. Last year I fired maybe 250 times while developing loads. At $4-$5 each, nope would not happen. My cost for those, some with lessor cost varmint bullets was under 80 cents. That was about $200 but I now have loads developed, forever. Here is a pick of a cheap plinking load for that gun. These are blem bullets from Midway. 25 cal

117 grain Hornady, 25 cent each, 9 cent primer and 45 cents powder. 79 cents each. They group like this, 3,250 fps. The wind was blowing 30 mph that day, hence they were all to the right a bit. I have tried those "blem" bullets from Midway in 30 cal, 25cal, and 2

24 and never had one that was not perfect, Those bullets today that are not "blems" are 35 cents each.FWIW
Reloading saves money for sure. But also a hobby all by itself.

Tip: In the last year or two bullet prices have jumped and continue to do so. The only bargain out there are the Speer brand. Eventually they will jump too.. I am buying them up just for shooting paper and varmints. I save my premium bullets for deer. Some of these like the 130 grain varmint bullet are only 22 cents each. They will work in my 300BLK, 308, 30-06, 7.62x 39 Mini 30, and my 300 Wby. Cheap shooting fun. If you reload, just a thought.

Maybe reloading is not for everyone, but it adds a new dimension to creating the best possible load for a particular gun. Most guns made today will shoot that magic 1 inch or less group if you find the factory ammo that works in that gun. So, reloading is not needed as much these days. But it just lets you do so much more with a given gun. I may shoot 110 grain bullets in my rifle for a while, then 150s, then maybe 200 grain bullets. All for different applications in the same gun, and I can tailor those bullets as I want for that application. My2 cents.

 

Ranger4, that was a very good run down.
The IMR4350 and H4350 powder charge is identical for my 300WSM and I have both in my cabinet. The only thing I don't have is Large Pistol primers, one day I'll get some and then can look at a 10mm firearm.

 

Ranger4, that was a very good run down.
The IMR4350 and H4350 powder charge is identical for my 300WSM and I have both in my cabinet. The only thing I don't have is Large Pistol primers, one day I'll get some and then can look at a 10mm firearm.

Not sure if you know but several companies sell small pistol primer brass for the 10mm.Federal, Blazer Brass and maybe Winchester. Starline only makes large primer 10 mm brass.

They are like 45 acp, a pain to keep separate. Alll of the S and B 10mm ammo is small pistol primer. I think eventually it will all go to small primers.

10mm Once Fired Reloading brass-Wholesale brass - Blue Ridge Brass This place sells both.

 

With ammo prices really getting down low should I stock up on store bought ammo and keep my reloading supplies for when things get tight? I primarily shoot the range and practice pistol for self defense. I have 9mm, 380, 38 / 357, and 45 calibers. My rifles are 22 and 357 (Rossi lever).

Just wondering if reloading AND store bought will dry up down the road.........

Of course you should. Buy it while it’s cheap, it’s got a shelf life of at least a century so it’s not going to go bad on you.

Buy it cheap and stock it deep.

 

Of course you should. Buy it while it’s cheap, it’s got a shelf life of at least a century so it’s not going to go bad on you.
Buy it cheap and stock it deep.

Actually, that is pretty good advice and Dutch, your last line "Buy it cheap and stock it deep" is going in the Quotes of Note.

Just a few things to remember - Storage Temp is important, store your ammo and reloading powders at a temp that is comfortable for you.
Ammo Cans have magical properties - they keep out moisture. Get your tired butt off the couch and go to the range.

• Don’t store your long-term storage ammo in a place that is not climate-controlled...like a garage or storage shed.
• Rotate your ammo - FIFO First In First Out (use the oldest ammo first)
• Rotate carry ammo over to practice ammo status at a minimum of every 12 months. Six months, if you are often heat-abusive to the ammo (sometimes kept in a hot car).
• Make sure you can actually hit the broad side of a barn - Practice and practice again. Keep your shooting skills tuned.

 

thanks for that link. I was going to order some nickel plated small primer 10mm but they are out of stock. but I got on their list.
I'm down to less than 200 large pistol primers and in need of replenishing my 10mm ammo supply. I have several thousand each of small pistol and small rifle primers that also work fine in pistol loads. I figure with the Nickle cases sorting will be easier as most of my lg. primer cases are brass.

 

thanks for that link. I was going to order some nickel plated small primer 10mm but they are out of stock. but I got on their list.
I'm down to less than 200 large pistol primers and in need of replenishing my 10mm ammo supply. I have several thousand each of small pistol and small rifle primers that also work fine in pistol loads. I figure with the Nickle cases sorting will be easier as most of my lg. primer cases are brass.

Totally agree and same here. When supplies get short we improvise.

When they started loading 45 acp with small pistol primers it became a pain to keep them separate. Years ago when the 400 Corbon became popular we just formed our own cases from 45 acp. Then Starline and Corbon and Underwood the only people selling 400 Corbon ammo or cases went to the small primers due to the extra pressure. The Starline case is just a 45 ACP Plus P case with the small primer hole. The Recommendation is either Winchester Pistol Primers or Remington Small Rifle primers. So, when that happened, I just started converting the 45 acp cases with small primers, to 400 Corbon which keeps them straight. Ihave gobs of 45 acp cases and pick them up all the time at my range.

When I bought 10mm last year I did not even notice but most of the ammo I bought had small pistol primers, all of the S and B factory ammo. Then I bought Aquilla and they are all large pistol primers. So here I am again with a caliber that takes two different primer sizes. BUT, since the crazy primer shortages have happened, I no longer mind at all. I just load whichever I have the most primers for and let the others just stand by. But, as long as I can get primers, I can shoot the 10mm. I am thinking I may keep the two separated by maybe using the small primer cases with my jacketed loads and the small primer cases with my hotter jacketed bullets. I do something similar with my 45 Colt. All of my standard pressure loads are with cast bullets, all of my Ruger only loads are loaded with jacketed bullets. I labe each box, but I know when I look at them which is which.

I assume everybody knows that the small pistol primers and the small rifle primers are the exact same size? So with a little adjustment with powders, you can use either pistol or rifle primers in the 10mm or 400 Corbon. I have not seen much difference at all.

For those who may be new to reloading, Large Rifle Primers are slightly thicker than large Pistol Primers, so sometimes depending on the gun you might be able to use Large Rifle Primers in your handgun. But not so much the other way around. If you put the shorter large pistol primer into a rifle round, your firing ping pin sometimes will just push the primer forward but not have enough length or momentum. to fire the primer. Guess when you run short you just have to test each gun and see which will work.

But, having two primer size holes in the 10 mm case suits me just fine. As long as I have cases and any one of the 3 that fit I can load and fire that round. Anybody thinking about the 10mm or the 400 Corbon in a 1911, I highly recommend them. They are both crazy accurate round and have the power of a 357 mag in a semi auto handgun. What's not to like?

And for those interested, ammo has never been cheaper for the 10mm. I buy the S and B mostly and then use those cases for reloading. I have bought both FMJ Flat Poit and JHP 10 mm ammo for $22-$23 a box lately. S and B is not the hottest ammo in 10mm, but all of it has gotten 450-500 foot pounds of energy. Your 9mm is closer to 325, your 45 acp about 370-400 and your 40 SW about 400-425 fpe, so lots of power in that brand of 10mm. If you are sure you are going to buy a 10mm, might be wise to buy a few boxes before the next ammo crunch hits. Ammo crises are like climate change, somebody creates a new one every few years.

IMHO

 

I figure with the Nickle cases sorting will be easier as most of my lg. primer cases are brass.

Blaster, that's a good idea too.

 

If you are sure you are going to buy a 10mm, might be wise to buy a few boxes before the next ammo crunch hits.

Last range trip, when I cleaned up the brass from around where I was shooting, when I got home and started sortning, found about 25 cases of 10mm brass. It's a start.